Land’s End to John o’Groats

Norman King

We’re only here once and I love challenges which stretch, challenge and are going to give great memories. This trip had been in the pipeline since 2017 since I retired. But who to do it with, my brother Andy (the younger handsome one) retired in Apr 25, we’d talked about it for years. On a cold, dark, snowy Jan evening in Durham over a couple of beers we booked it the night before a Newcastle v AFCB FA Cup match. This was with Peak Tours and highly recommended, advantages, 2 vans, 3 support staff, cases taken from hotel to hotel, a brew, cake. Now we were committed. Next training, luckily, I managed to train all winter; Andy not so much, he hates the cold, wet days during winter. We embarked on training on hillier course on Tuesdays together over a mix of the South Downs, Chilterns, IoW and even went to Oundle. I continued my Audaxes and all of a sudden Andy was fitter than me on the hills and my only chance was to get him on the flat. We looked at the courses, hilly, hmm, well surely there will be some flat days.

Tina convinced me to use Garmin LiveTrack. I was dubious at first but agreed to try it. It worked very well in the main (on one day an issue), and I received loads of messages whilst riding that I could read, they helped a lot and I was grateful for them.

Statistics

I love a good stat, and to me this one is mouthwatering. I did my Jun target of climb by the 4th. I was cycling close to 500 miles a week and was top mileage one week (but Gary Adnitt was cycling across Africa!). We did exchange a message. Beer drunk not known, food eaten lots, weight lost 0lbs, lost 3lbs 7 days after the event!

Day Route Date Time Distance Elevation
1 Land’s End to Fowey 31 May 5:13:44 64.78 miles 5,325 ft
2 Fowey to Moretonhampstead 1 Jun 6:27:03 63.79 miles 5,774 ft
3 Moretonhampstead to Street 2 Jun 6:11:37 73.97 miles 5,325 ft
4 Street to Monmouth 3 Jun 6:24:07 67.50 miles 5,128 ft
5 Monmouth to Bishops Castle 4 Jun 6:01:27 65.30 miles 4,800 ft
6 Bishops Castle to Runcorn 5 Jun 5:53:28 74.18 miles 4,127 ft
7 Runcorn to Lancaster 6 Jun 6:52:42 74.59 miles 5,266 ft
8 Lancaster to Penrith 7 Jun 5:21:45 60.31 miles 5,240 ft
9 Penrith to Moffat 8 Jun 5:45:49 73.11 miles 3,579 ft
10 Moffat to Kinross 9 Jun 7:24:56 84.57 miles 4,373 ft
11 Kinross to Ballater 10 Jun 7:19:28 82.90 miles 5,213 ft
12 Ballater to Inverness 11 Jun 6:57:01 75.01 miles 5,525 ft
13 Inverness to The Crask 12 Jun 5:43:48 68.70 miles 3,507 ft
14 The Crask to John O’Groats 13 Jun 6:31:30 81.95 miles 4,203 ft
Total 88:08:25 1,010.66 miles 67,385 ft

Prior to the start

In the run-up to the event, I had my Moda serviced by Sigma Sports in Letchworth, they did a great job. Monty had put new tyres on my bike before then. The only issue is I needed new head bearings and didn’t get the bike to Peak Tours till the Fri, I met them at the Services SW of Bristol. Not ideal but I had a bike. I was taking the train to Penzance and Mike took me to the train station, I had chosen to take 7 lots of everything for cycling. Upon reflection, I got it right except I could have done with a bit more wet weather kit, but it stayed warm. Got to Penzance, Andy was late (British Rail delays). I checked in. Went to the briefing, picked up the Peak Tours Top (Andy had given me a top for his charity already) and we had our meal. Large group of 24 but we knew we were cycling at our own pace. Early to bed and we had a breakfast and a cycle to Lands End from St Just. All good, lovely day for a ride.

Day 1 Land’s End to Fowey, 64.78 miles

After seeing Lands’ End (done it before it’s trashy) we assembled at the start for the off, mandatory group photo, quite a large group with one person opting not to ride today. Not a bad start to the course and we went quickly to Marazion for the first coffee stop at 13 miles, bit soon but all good. Off again, got a bit lumpier and it was sunnier, still had my gilet on. Got to lunch at Perranwell, nice buffet lunch, not too hungry but ate it all. Course got lumpier again and we rode through places we’ve walked on the SWCP. This was now approaching 5,000 feet of climb; Andy was waiting for me at the top of climbs. Finished and we were at the Galleon Inn in Fowey, great place. Felt OK and hopefully day 2 which is tougher will be OK.

Day 2 Fowey to Moretonhampstead, 63.79 miles

LeJog day 2 from Fowey to Moretonhampstead. We were told it would be a wet, warm one but we live in hope. We had the briefing at the ferry and crossed and straight up a hill, then another and finally another so by 7 miles, 1,000 foot was climbed. I was at the back but not being swept up! If flattened out a bit and I made up speed and places, through some of my favourite places, Polperro and Looe. Then first brew stop at Seaton, we had some drizzle but mainly dry. Next onto Plymouth for lunch, lots of undulating climbs and entering Plymouth was a bit of a toil, lovely cafe though I had a tuna baguette, pre-ordered, then had chips envy and a cup of tea. Andy and I didn’t want to hang around. We then left Plymouth on the coast, hard work and the rain came down, and got harder and mistier the more we rode. We had a lovely 4 mile 2% climb that I could time trial on and as a result we caught 5 of the faster riders. We then stayed together till Yelverton. Leaving there Andy and I were in front as the others took comfort breaks. There was a 2-mile climb and first Andy then the other 5 came past me. Then we got to the next Brew Stop, hot tea and snacks, we all huddled together. Then we were off to the finish, hilly at first then we had lots of ups and downs and in places you could get some speed up. I was closing in on 10mph, lol. We got there wet through and got into our room and had a hot shower. Hungry!

Day 3 Moretonhampstead to Street, 73.97 miles

LeJog day 3 Moretonhampstead to Street. The phrase eat, sleep, cycle is now very apt. Slept for almost 7 hours, alarm set, packed, dressed, breakfast, Garmin tracker and off, phew. Meant to rain but we only had a short sharp shower after Exeter and the first brew stop. To be fair the ride to Exeter was tough, 2 big climbs then a lovely downhill section. Average speed was going to be higher and I was hoping for the afternoon to be quick. The Broadhembury hill was tough, it got to 23% and for the first time this ride I got off for 2 short walks, found out afterwards most people had one walk, was that lactic and it really was tough. I think the Norwegian brothers didn’t stop as they were 8 minutes faster than Andy and I. Off towards lunch but we had a diversion but the crew told us what to do (3 rights) we did it with a lady called Ann and we were on our own. We had a 10k stretch where I could TT and I left Andy and Ann behind I waited up for them. We then got to the Your Inn pub for a buffet, very nice, about 8 out of the group were there with the Norwegians just leaving. Lovely buffet, we had a beer (Andy) and a shandy (me) and were off before we got cafe legs. What seemed an easy start was up a hill for 2 miles, not hard. Then up and down for a long time. Some of the downhills were extensive as we were losing some 900 feet of climb but it was tiny lanes and lots of gravel on the roads. Got to North Curry for the 2nd brew and had a good chat with Mark. then off and at last we were getting speed up, over the Somerset Levels. About 5 miles from the end, we went down a drover’s road and hit 2 miles of gravel, tough and I think I pinged the paintwork. Last hill then downhill to Street and got the average up by 2mph over yesterday. Time for shower, unpack, clean bike, charge Di2 and eat. Great event.

Day 4 Street to Monmouth, 67.50 miles

LeJog Day 4 Street to Monmouth, woke up with heavy legs and only had poached eggs on toast. That was a mistake. Started out in the drizzle, and was faffing and we were off last! Down into Glastonbury, my third time riding through there since last Aug. Out onto the Somerset levels and up onto a climb, we had caught Rich. First climb was hard work; my legs were sore (DOMS). Down into Wells on the Strawberry Line. We had a good look at the Cathedral and then went up a tough 2-mile climb, I cycled it all but did not enjoy it. Then off again, pace was now a bit higher and we caught up another group of 5 and we rode into Chew Valley for our first brew. I was very hungry and ate a lot, I was only just getting into the ride. Now off towards Bristol and we had quite a bit of undulation. We came to the Clifton Suspension Bridge; we had to walk over (I’m sure I rode it last year) it was bucketing down. Next a climb and we were soon out of Bristol. I managed to get some speed up to the lunch stop, the Fox Inn at Easter Compton, again ate a lot, lovely. We then had a flattish ride to the Severn Bridge; the wind was up. We arrived after the other 5, they were talking so we rode over. It was windy and we had to take care, but we did it. Next a long climb to get out of Chepstow. Up and down again to Tintern Abbey and we caught another group of 5. Eat and drink then up another hill, over 2 miles but far more manageable, took 32 mins to get up it. Then mainly a long downhill for 6 miles. I was in my element and overtook the 5 in front again. Then on the edge of Monmouth took a wrong turn, this was where Andy got ahead of me. Good ride, must eat more before the ride, sore shoulders. Day 5 should be interesting.

Day 5 Monmouth to Bishops Castle, 65.30 miles

LeJog day 5 Monmouth to Bishops Castle. It was pouring down whilst we prepped bikes and got cases and day bags to the vans. The start was uphill again, drizzle by this stage, I felt OK and got up and met Andy and off we went. We had to get to 17 miles for the first brew. The first bit was a 9 mile stretch which included a photo of the LeJog sign, interesting. Andy struggled up the next hill and I rode past him, unusual for him, we had our first stop then we were shown a better way into Hereford (where I did RAF trade training and the Sgts course in the 70s/80s). At Sainsburys one of our riders Richard was met by loads of friends and employees (he works there) donuts all round, quite touching. Then off again, I was going well, waited up for Andy and the next hill I was suffering, not steep. Going to be a long day. Andy by now was doing OK. We got to the New Inn in Pembridge for a buffet lunch, not bad. Then off again on a flatter section, I had picked up but felt tired. Next came 3 climbs and I was so slow going up them. We then got to the brew stop and I stuffed my face. Off again, undulating, we got to the junction to Clun where the first group were stopping. I suffered along here, Andy waited up for me on a stretch where he’d normally be following me. As I got there, he set off thinking I was with him. I wasn’t I was done in. I took a couple of minutes and caught up with him in Clun, I explained my issue, he hadn’t realised. I took a gel, sat down and off we went for the last 6 miles, one big climb and I was OK (it’s in all in the head). After that I hung on his wheel. Then we got to Banks House, a lovely big B&B and a great welcome, tea and cake. Shower, early meal and try and get an earlier night. Flatter tomorrow and a night in Runcorn!

Day 6 Bishops Castle to Runcorn, 74.18 miles

Day 6 of LeJog, in a routine now, after yesterday’s bonk I ensured I ate a lot, plus less climb (not a lot). We were due off at 9,15 but Andy couldn’t find his phone, 20 mins later it was in his case in his shorts, ah well. We were a good 15 mins behind the others. Off we went not too bad, bit of a climb. A nice stretch followed undulations and some great downhills. We got to the Brew Point and Mark said we weren’t too far behind the others (I think he says that to all the riders). Into Shrewsbury, lots of meandering and the pace lowered as a result. Then off to lunch, this was lovely roads and we were soon at the pub, 6 were there and we learnt 2 were behind and another 3 had been seeing friends. We’d caught up well. Sandwiches, chips and cake plus an orange juice and lemonade, lovely. Off again, into Wales, Rich and Wendy (Peak Tours) were with us and the roads were rough. Andy kept going off course on his borrowed Garmin. There was a 1Km hill before the 2nd brew and Wendy (her day as sweeper) chatted to me. Lovely guides on this trip (3 of them). Had a tea and nibbles. Andy had a 5pm massage appt so went off ahead off me. I was next and the other 5 weren’t far behind, Rich (from Phoenix) left last with Wendy. I was going OK but with 10 miles to go but the last 3 miles were tough. On the first hill, 3 of the 5 came past me, then regrouped and I carried on past them, never to see them again. Up to now I’d seen Andy in the distance but with the hills no chance. Came to a busy junction took a while to filter out and then it was the last climb to the Holiday Inn. Great day, felt great, my average was close to 13mph before the last 3 hills. Maybe I can do this.

Day 7 Runcorn to Lancaster, 74.59 miles

LeJog Day 7 – Runcorn to Lancaster Uni. Raining at the start we left about 9.10 and coped with the busy roads until the course took us to some cycleways, old railway lines and canal towpaths. We were going out quite quick, again last off but we caught 6 riders then another 5 riders and were suddenly in the top half of the field. The guys had plotted a good route through the conurbations but still a bit slow going. First brew stop at 18 miles after seeing one of the guy’s friends and family out to cheer him (and us) on. Off again now we were into the lumpy bits, over 2 miles up Rivington Hill, I stopped for a comfort break after a few hundred yards and took a photo near the top. After that a long downhill and we were soon at lunch. Ate a lot again. After this I was a bit tired and at the next hill I took a break and ate a banana on a bench near the top of the hill. I was now last of the riders. Took a gel after that and that worked (or was it in my head) and soon got to the 2nd brew. I did sit here, tea and snacks. Only 15 miles to the finish, set off and after about 2 miles another 2-mile climb. Took it steady, at the back with Andy and Mike (the sweeper). Long downhill and I loved this, overtook another 5 riders who were taking it easier. Soon got to near Lancaster, we had our last hill and got to the rooms at the Uni. Half way, tomorrow is 60 miles.

Day 8 Lancaster to Penrith, 60.31 miles

Day 8 (sorry what day is it) Sunday of LeJog, this bubble is so confusing on what day, date, where am I. Seriously, breakfast at Lancaster Uni, much like a Wetherspoons, OK but you couldn’t complain. Briefing at 9am and we were away about 9.10. Up a hill (13 today!), meant to be 4 over 1.5 miles. I felt great and so did Andy. Strong South-Westerly and soon got into a rhythm. Went through a pretty village, over a bridge up a big climb. Then a lovely long sweeping downhill and I was flying. Quick stop then another 6 came in before we left. Then climb up to a ridge overlooking the M6 and the railway line. On our back road there was a lot of traffic. The downhill to Tebay Truck Services was fast and at stages we were catching traffic. Almost overshot the services, Mick was driving after us and called us back. Lots of people who were attending the Appleby Horsefair. Queued for lunch and the guy in front of me was very interested in what we were doing. Rich joined us and when we’d all finished, we left together. After about 2 miles we had another 1.5mile climb, I managed to climb all 13 hills today without stopping, must be OK. Second brew and just before that I saw a Red Squirrel. On the way down a hill a sheep wandered into the road and I had to swerve to miss it much to the amusement of Andy and Rich. Short stop, coke zero, cashews and liquorice allsorts. Only just over 10 miles to go and we went off at a good pace; I sat on Andy’s wheel as his Garmin was dying. Just before Penrith we had a bit of off-road to get into the town. Got to the George, found Wendy put our bikes away and checked in. Great days ride. Easier one tomorrow, let’s see.

Day 9 Penrith to Moffat, 73.11 miles

LeJog Day 9 Penrith to Moffat. A shortened update as I am writing this 2 days later due to Wi-Fi issues in Moffat and Kinross!! This was not as hilly a ride and if the wind was kind a potential easy day. We were quite quick to and after Carlisle on a nice day with what felt like a South-Westerly. Andy and I rode together from after Carlisle to Gretna where we rode into Scotland and had the obligatory photo. Nice lunch and we had caught up with the pack. Then we went West, what a bugger a headwind for over 6 miles, tough. Then some back lanes to Moffat, 2nd brew stop seemed a long way but luckily, we got into Moffat quite early and checked into our hotel, we shared a room with the Norwegian brothers.

Day 10 Moffat to Kinross, 84.57 miles

LeJog Day 10 Moffat to Kinross. a 6 mile climb out of Moffat up the Devils Beeftub, a top 200 climb. I was last but went OK. Mike came past me and waited up the top. Then we started overtaking others and we went through the Pentland Hills on rough roads. Got to the Brew Stop and felt OK. Lunch in Penicuik was nice. Then off to Edinburgh which we rode on a mix of old train/tram tracks, cycleways and roads. I picked up a puncture not long after getting into the suburbs. Tried to clean it off and inflated the rear. All OK so we continued, Edinburgh Castle, then the North side of Edinburgh and finally the crossing off the Forth Road Bridge, nice views. We got to the other side and it started raining. The last 20 miles it got heavier, and heavier and in the last 2 miles it hailed. Arrived wet, cold and glad to get a hot shower. Shower was tepid, Wi-Fi intermittent and food was average. Heh ho.

Day 11 Kinross to Ballater, 82.90 miles

LeJog Day 11 Kinross to Ballater. Early start, had breakfast, rechecked tyre, just put air in and charged my Di2 from 50% to 70% should be enough. Hilly start and it was undulating to Perth and then undulating to Blairgowrie then lumpy to lunch at the Glenshee cafe (lovely lunch). I was tired, so tired and tearful and we still had Glenshee Ski Climb to get over, the highest paved road in Britain, I had to stop 4 times to stretch but didn’t walk as such. Got there with some still behind, a lot of tired legs today. Then 6 miles downhill to 2nd Brew Stop. After that we had another 10 miles downhill, going through Braemar and then onto Balmoral. Nice finish to the day. Now on a back road to Ballater, last 2 miles it started pouring down but we were lucky. Almost there and felt a lot better after the Glenshee climb.

Day 12 Ballater to Inverness, 75.01 miles

LeJog Day 12 Ballater to Inverness. Pretty tired at breakfast but made sure I ate plenty. Rechecked tyres, rear down so inflated again. Off, a lot of climb to the Lecht, lots of ups and downs as well. Tough start to 18 miles. First tough climb I had to stop twice to stretch, Andy went ahead as he didn’t want to stop before the Lecht, fair play. I was with Rich the Rocker and Mike the guide arrived. Got going up this steep hill. Bit of switchbacks, legs did get going and then got to the Lecht (second highest paved road in the UK at 2,090 feet). I started out with good intention but after 50 metres, unclipped (nearly falling off) and walked the 20% bit to about 600 metres. Still just under 2 miles to go, luckily all between 7 and 11% and I cycled the whole way up. Got to the top in the drizzle and it was about 7c, glad I had bib tights on. Hot drink, ate, talked to Andy (his brakes were being sorted). Then downhill for miles and miles. Down in the valley it was warmer. We had a 3-mile climb and at the start I had no legs so walked a short stretch by a cafe, after that I was fine. Got to the top and downhill on the whole to Granton-on-Spey for lunch. It was OK. Then out NW and we had a tailwind for miles, such fun. Then we went on a gravely road for about 5 miles that was sketchy. Saw Wendy at the brew stop. Only 18 miles to go, it was undulating for the first 12 miles. Saw a viaduct and the Battle of Culloden site. Then a lovely slight downhill for almost 3 miles, I was flying. Coming into Inverness was slow due to the traffic and navigating cycle-ways. Got to the Hotel about 5.40pm, earlier than we thought. Tired, happy and 2 days to go.

Day 13 Inverness to The Crask, 68.70 miles

LeJog Day 13 (penultimate day) Inverness to Crask Inn, 68 miles, shorter day. We left about 9am on a shorter day, I turned on LiveTrack again and thought it was working (eventually in the afternoon it started working). Along the seashore near Beauly, I was going well and we then started heading North and the average picked up with a tailwind. We got to Dingwall and had our first hill, soon followed by the first Brew stop. Feeling good, off again towards lunch at Bonnar Bridge, sweeping and undulating roads. The cafe was a rural centre for the village. Soup and sandwiches with cake. Off again, boom, no legs, struggled till before Lairg, Andy and Rich (the guy from Phoenix) coaxed me along. Took a gel, helped a bit and got into Lairg for the 2nd brew stop. Felt a bit better, only 12 miles and we were now on a single-track road with camper vans, other cyclists, cars and motor cyclists. Started drizzling and after one more hill (only 5 today) we made it to the Crask Inn, phew.

Day 14 The Crask to John O’Groats, 81.95 miles

LeJog Day 14 Crask Inn to John O’Groats, last day, wow, who’d believe I was capable of this. We were in the slower group and started at just after 8.15am in the drizzle (dreich) day, a strong westerly would be our friend. The fast group would start at about 9am. So off we went, any tiredness was gone, any muscle fatigue was alleviated (heh I’m writing this 24 hours later and have rose-tinted glasses on). We flew to Brew Stop 1 at 33 miles, lots of sheep and lambs and in the main downhill but got there ahead of the single-track fast guys, the first 2 arrived just as we were leaving. Felt OK, but now we had climb 2 to 8 before half-way. Lunch was at a small town called Melvich and was delicious, crumble again. After lunch the last 3 hills, not long or tough but for me slow. Loads of encouragement from the fasties (3 under 30) and Andy was pacing me. He’s had a great ride with one poor day, where I had 3 poor days, now he’s retired I won’t catch him! A long 12km stretch slightly uphill and it rained and got blowy, we were warned at lunch that the last 12 miles may be cancelled, nooo!!. Mick caught me, I was DFL, no worries, Mick always rode with a smile and encouraged you, a former pro, who loves cycling, Audaxes and a beer. Then coming into Thurso the rain stopped, this funny yellow thing appeared and all was well in the world. We suddenly saw other cyclists doing LeJog, all routes converging onto this one. Rich from Phoenix was riding with us, such an eccentric and not your typical stereotype, sensible, loves his food and beer. Second brew stop Dunnet Head, 14 miles to go, aching crotch but a tea, cake(s) and it’s over, the downhill helped. The last 6 were 10 mins behind us. Off we went, tried to TT it but held onto Andy’s and Rich’s wheel. At the hotel, waited for the slow group then rolled into the finish. Lots of hugs, tears (yep, I was so emotional) and pictures taken. Back to the hotel after a drink of Carver, team meal, chats, bed, up at 5.15 am for the bus to Inverness. What a journey and fantastic to share it with Andy my brother. We helped each other, I had 3 bad parts of days whilst Andy only had 1. Now he’s retired I doubt I will catch him again. This has been a challenge in the planning for years and so glad we committed in Jan to pay to go. The Audax events, Tues training with Andy on hilly courses and our stubbornness not to give in helps a lot. Great company (Peak Tours) but also great guides, Mark (got me a new suitcase as well on day 1), Wendy’s encouragement and cheery, Mike sorted my loose headset and convinced me my puncture would hold (and it did) as the sealant would hold after Edinburgh and great company in the evenings. The whole 24 were great and they all wanted us all to finish. No egos just all completing a challenge. What next, PBP?

The end

Well just about, got the bus at 6.15am on Sun, off to Inverness then a 9-hour train trip to St Neots. Andy and I were sat in different carriages but after Edinburgh half the train got off. So, Andy joined me, we were both tired, kept eating “stuff” from the eating carriage. Mike met me at the end; I was tired and so glad he took me home.